Ubud was our first destination in Bali, Indonesia. We landed at Denpasar around 1:30 AM. Our wonderful guide and Bali Mami Ana picked us up and opened her home to us for a nap. When we woke up Ana made us some tea and we sat in the garden with her dog Chica. Her husband came out for morning prayers and offerings. Most of Indonesia is Muslim, but Bali is almost entirely Hindu. Ornate palm leaf boxes with tall tassels are woven to hold morning and evening offerings.
Sacred Monkey Forest
I read several blogs advising you not to go here but ultimately, I’m glad I didn’t listen. The monkey sanctuary in Ubud is home to hundreds of Macaque monkeys. They are smart, they are tactile, and they can be aggressive. I recommend not bringing any bags inside and securing your phone/camera well. The monkeys WILL unzip pouches and take whatever they please from your bag. You will not be able to shove them off as they will show their teeth and nip. Fortunately, there are staff members who work well with them. All negatives aside, the forest is beautiful and the animals are intriguing to watch. Entrance is 80,000 IDR ($5.60 USD) and takes about an hour to go through.
Tegallalang Rice Terraces
These rice fields have a huge draw for tourists, and for good reason. Our guide recommended we eat lunch at Uma Dunga Cafe. This cafe has a breathtaking view of the terraces. Also, you can swing out into the lush greenery for 100,000 IDR ($7.00 USD). From the restaurant, follow the narrow pathways down into the terraces and explore freely as you’d like. Be respectful to stay on the paths as the fields are an important part of the agriculture. You will see workers tending to the plants and may ask you for a small donation. There are also beverage stands scattered throughout.
Tirta Empul Temple
Tirta Empul is well known for its holy waters. Many Hindu’s come to perform water purification rituals. The Balinese are kind enough to allow tourists to participate in this ritual. You must wear a sarong to enter the temple grounds, they can also be borrowed at the entrance. You may partake in the water ritual, but you must wear a certain cloth. The cost is 10,000 IDR + 15,000 IDR for a locker to put your clothes. It is truly an amazing experience. Yes, the water is chilly and there are Koi fish swimming freely around you during the ritual.
Our guide informed us that you must approach the water spouts with your head down and say “Namaste x3”. The first pool focuses on cleansing your spirit and soul. Skip the 11th and 12th spout as they are for death rituals only. The Balinese bring the dead to be purified for the afterlife. You may use the 13th spout and then continue onto the next pool. The second pool has 3 spouts and focuses on karma. The third pool has 6 fountains and cleanses the body of illness. You must do these in reverse from right to left.
Where to stay?
Booking a bamboo hut in the middle of the jungle may sound crazy. However, I did just that, and the payoff was so, so sweet. Le Sabot Ubud is just absolutely stunning. The owners could not be more kind and helpful. It is accessible walking from the main road but quite a walk. They will pick you up on motorbikes and drive you down. After that, all of the noise from the main road quickly disappeared. I found myself in the heart of a sprawling rice terrace.
Meanwhile, far exceeding any expectation I could even have imagined, the hut was beautiful. The has two floors both with queen sized beds. Not only that, my bed on the top floor was suspended from the ceiling and swayed me softly to sleep every night. In addition to the secludedness, the jungle ambiance was so calming as well, it’s definitely the best sleep I’ve had in years. Equally important, the owners also had the cutest puppy I instantly fell in love with.
Where to eat?!
First, the water in Bali is not safe to drink. This applies to teeth brushing, eating raw veggies and non-peelable fruits, and even ice cubes. Do not take this lightly. That being said, a ton of great restaurants are close-by in Ubud to take advantage of. We chose to splurge a bit and eat a Bridge’s restaurant.
Nestled over a bridge, the building looks out into thick foliage. It’s a white tablecloth kind of place with very attentive staff. Balinese locals typically eat dinner around 7:30-8:00, so going early affords you no wait. I had spinach ravioli that was superb and tried a local white wine. The bill ran us 747,000 IDR ($52 USD) for bread, two entrees, bottle of sparkling, and two glasses of wine. Ultimately, it was similarly priced to eating out back home. I loved my meal which made the first dinner memorable.
